FAQ’s
Q. How long does a home inspection take?
A. A quality Home Inspection usually takes 2 to 3 hours depending on size, age, and condition. We offer same day reports, so you can have the information needed to make an informed decision quickly.
Q. Why should I have a home inspection?
A. Having a home inspected is a visual check-up of items and components that would take a homeowner 1-2 years to get to. You are encouraged to follow the inspector, he will explain what conditions he is finding with your home. He can let you know the priorities of what needs repaired now and what can wait to be monitored.
Q. What’s included in a home inspection?
A. Home inspection components can be broken down to interior and exterior areas.
INTERIOR COMPONENTS - HEATING, PLUMBING, ELECTRICAL VISIBLE PIPING, FAUCETS, AND FIXTURES ATTIC AREA, CRAWL/BASEMENT AREA, KITCHEN WALLS, FLOORS, CEILING, WINDOWS
EXTERIOR COMPONENTS ROOF, CHIMNEY, FLASHING, VALLEYS SIDING, TRIM, WINDOWS AND STORM WINDOWS DRIVEWAYS, PATIOS, DECKS, PORCHES EXTERIOR A/C UNIT, HEAT PUMP
Q. How soon will I get my inspection report?
A. We deliver same-day reports. The report comes via email in web-based and PDF versions. With an easy-to-read, clean layout that is mobile-friendly including HD photos and videos showing inspection defects. Some ancillary services like Radon testing can take 48 hours for the test results. Water quality testing can take up to a week for the lab to have the results.
Q. Should I attend the home inspection?
A. Yes, you should definitely attend the home inspection if at all possible. We always suggest that you accompany us on the inspection for the last part to answer any questions that you may have. Here’s why: Why You Should Be There:
1. See Issues Firsthand It’s one thing to read a report—it’s another to see a crack in the foundation or evidence of water damage in person. Our inspectors will walk you around to show you any issues while on-site.
2. Ask Questions in Real Time Our Inspectors can explain potential issues and whether they’re major concerns or minor fixes and improvement items, and recommend which contractor to contact for further evaluation.
3. Learn How the House Works A good inspector will show you how systems like HVAC, water shut-off valves, and electrical panels work. This is useful even if you’re not handy.
4. Understand the Report Better Being present helps you make sense of the report later, since you’ll already have context.
Q. Can a home inspector estimate repair costs?
A. A home inspector typically cannot provide official repair cost estimates, because there are lots of variables that may need further evaluation and a contractor to bid based on materials, location, and the scope of work. But we can help direct you to our trusted contractors for a quote for the repairs needed. We also pair with a third-party company that can do estimates based off our reports at Repair Pricer.
Q. Can a home fail an inspection?
A. No, a home doesn’t “fail” inspection — but the findings may lead to renegotiation, repair requests, or a canceled deal. Home inspections are not pass/fail. The inspector’s job is to report on the condition of the home, not to grade it or approve it. Our goal is to help give you a better idea of what you are purchasing, selling, or maintaining.
Q. Is a home inspection required in Oregon and Washington?
A. No — in both Oregon and Washington, a home inspection is not legally required in the real estate transaction. The home inspection is in the client’s best interest to get a better understanding of what they are buying or selling. Getting a quality home inspection done by a qualified licensed home inspector can help the client make an informed decision on what condition the property is in.
Q. Do I need a home inspection on new construction?
A. Yes - it’s strongly recommended. Here’s a few reasons why.
1. Builders Make Mistakes Even reputable builders can miss things, there’s lots of subcontractors on-site and many moving parts with one supervisor overseeing the whole project. Common issues are — miswired outlets, improper grading, unsealed windows, HVAC issues, missing insulation, etc. A third-party inspector may catch problems the city inspector didn’t.
2. Municipal Inspections Aren’t Comprehensive City or county building inspectors check for code compliance — not quality. Their inspections are brief, and they don’t test systems like a private inspector would.
3. Warranty Deadlines Most new homes come with a 1-year builder warranty. A private inspection (ideally before closing or before that warranty expires) can help you get repairs covered.
Q. Should I get a radon test in Washington or Oregon?
A. Yes — it’s a good idea to test for radon in Washington or Oregon. Radon exposure is a potential risk in certain areas, and the only way to know your specific risk is to test your home. Why testing is advised in both states-
• Radon is invisible, odorless, and it can travel through soil into buildings. Because of that, you can’t tell whether you have high levels just by “looking.”
• Both states explicitly encourage testing. When the state tests it logs the areas of higher average levels.
• Washington’s Department of Health emphasizes that “testing for radon is best practice and the first step for addressing indoor radon exposure.”
• Oregon’s health authorities also stress that “every home needs to be tested, regardless of where it is located,” noting that radon levels can vary dramatically even between neighboring homes.
• There is evidence of elevated radon in parts of both states. It’s recommended to test every 3 years per EPA suggestions. Radon.com is a great resource.
Q. Will a home inspection tell me if the roof needs to be replaced?
A. No - our job is to inform you of what we see at the time of the inspection. If there are any defects found, we will recommend a licensed roofer evaluate and repair/replace as needed. Here’s what a home inspector will do:
• Visually inspect the roof.
• Look for missing, curling, or damaged shingles, moss growth, rusted flashing, soft spots, or signs of water intrusion.
• Check the condition of gutters, downspouts, chimneys, and vent pipes.
• Inspect attic ceilings for moisture stains, organic growth, structural issues, or signs of leaking.
Q. Do I need a sewer scope if the home has a septic system?
A. Yes, you still want a sewer scope inspection, even if the home has a septic system.
If the home has a Septic System: You don’t have a connection to a city sewer main, but you do still have: -Waste lines running from the house to the septic tank
Q. Is it normal to have mold in the attic in the Pacific Northwest?
A. It’s not normal to have mold in the attic, but it is commonly found during a home inspection in the Pacific Northwest due to the region’s wet, cool climate. You will not know it’s mold until you have it tested by a lab.
Why mold or “Organic Growth” what we call it until it’s tested, in attics happens in the PNW:
The Pacific Northwest (like western Washington and Oregon) has:
-High humidity and frequent rain
-Cool temperatures, especially in fall/winter
-Limited sun exposure in some seasons
-Homes built with poor ventilation in older construction
All of these can lead to:
-Condensation in the attic, especially in winter on the north side
-Moisture buildup from indoor air (e.g., from showers or cooking) that escapes into the attic with inadequate ventilation, creating ideal mold conditions
Q. Why is it common to find mold in the attic during a home inspection in the Pacific Northwest?
A. Common causes we see during a home inspection that cause “Organic Growth” in the attic:
-Blocked or missing soffit vents, sometimes filled with insulation
-Inadequate ridge or gable vents leading to poor ventilation
-Bathroom/kitchen fans venting into the attic instead of outside (very common on older houses)
-Roof leaks
-Poorly insulated attic floors (warm air rises and condenses on cold roof sheathing)
Is it a problem?
Yes — even if it’s common, “Organic Growth” in the attic can:
-Damage wood and roof sheathing
-Affect indoor air quality if it spreads, which can affect people sensitive to mold
What you should do?
- Have us inspect your attic for signs of “Organic Growth”, musty smells, or damp insulation
-Ensure ventilation is adequate (soffit + ridge vents, or gable + roof vents)
-Make sure exhaust fans vent outside, not into the attic
-Fix any roof leaks immediately
-If mold is present, we recommend professional remediation by a qualified contractor
Q. Is rodent activity in the house really that bad? Don’t all houses have rodent activity?
A. Great question — and one that a lot of people quietly wonder about. The reality: Rodents are common, during home inspections in our areas we see rodent activity in 90% of the houses we inspect. Some level of rodent presence is extremely common, especially in older homes, rural areas, or places with easy access points. Many homes have occasional or low-level activity without the owners even knowing it.
But there’s a big difference between:
1. Occasional visitors (like a mouse slipping in once in a while and leaving),
2. Active rodent issues (mice or rats nesting, breeding, and staying inside).
Rodents aren’t uncommon — but that doesn’t mean they’re harmless. If you notice signs, deal with it sooner rather than later to avoid health risks and costly damage. Small issues can often be handled DIY (traps, sealing entry points), but bigger issues may need professional help. We always recommend a qualified pest contractor evaluate. They will be able to guide you properly.
Q.How long should a water heater last?
A.The lifespan of a water heater depends on its type, maintenance, and water quality, but most storage tank water heaters (electric or gas) usually last 7-12 years. Tanks corrode or the heating element fails over time. Tankless water heaters usually last 14-20 years. They are longer-lasting, with fewer corrosion issues, but regular descaling is key to extend the lifespan.
Q. How long does an HVAC system last?
A. A well-maintained HVAC system typically lasts between 13+ years for the heating system, cooling system lasts 7+ years, depending on the type of system, usage, and maintenance. Regular maintenance service is recommended annually. During home inspections it is common to see systems without current service records. Neglecting the system can lead to components failing, and eventually higher repair costs or replacement.
Q. How often should I replace my furnace filter?
A. You should generally change your furnace filter every 3 to 6 months, but the exact timing depends on a few factors for which filter type:
-Fiberglass filters: Every 3 months for the 1” filters, every 6 months for the 4” filters
-Pleated filters: Every 60–90 days
-High-efficiency filters (HEPA, MERV 11+): Every 6–12 months, depending on system design
During home inspections it’s very common to see these very dirty and past their recommended use.
Q. Are cracks in the garage floor and walkway normal?
A. Yes — small cracks in garage floors and walkways are quite common and usually normal. Here’s what’s typical versus what might need attention:
Normal (usually nothing to worry about)
-Hairline cracks (less than 1/8 inch wide) caused by:
-Concrete curing and shrinkage after it’s poured
-Temperature changes causing expansion and contraction
-Minor settling of the ground beneath
-Superficial surface cracks that don’t affect the concrete’s strength
Needs closer inspection
-Wide cracks (more than 1/4 inch) or ones that keep growing
-Uneven or raised edges (displaced)— could mean soil movement settling or heaving (moving upwards), common in corners
-Cracks with moisture, efflorescence (white residue), or rust stains — may indicate drainage or rebar corrosion issues
-Cracks that form a pattern (like spiderwebs or large diagonal lines) — could point to foundation movement
If the cracks are widening or you see uneven slabs, we recommend having a concrete or foundation specialist take a look.
Q. Are cracks in the sheet rock normal?
A.Yes — small cracks in sheetrock (drywall) are pretty common and usually not a serious issue.
Normal / Cosmetic Cracks
-Hairline cracks (less than 1/8 inch wide), especially around: Door and window corners, ceiling and wall joints, where two sheets of drywall meet
Often caused by:
-Natural settling of the house
-Minor humidity or temperature changes
-Normal seasonal expansion and contraction
These can usually be patched with joint compound and repainted. Caulking works well too since it can expand and contract so the same spot doesn’t crack again.
Q. Do homes in the Pacific Northwest need seismic straps?
A.Yes — homes in the Pacific Northwest (PNW) should have seismic straps, especially on key equipment like water heaters, and ideally, the home’s structure itself should be seismically secured. During home inspections we are inspecting for these safety measures. We offer manufactured home foundation certifications for lending requirements, which require seismic strap tie-downs for the structure to the foundation.
Q. Are cracks in my foundation normal?
A. Some foundation cracks are normal, while others can signal structural problems — it depends on the type, size, and pattern of the cracks.
Normal (usually not serious)
-Hairline cracks (less than 1/8 inch wide): Common as concrete cures and settles.
-Vertical cracks: Often caused by normal shrinkage or minor settling; usually not structural.
-Consistent width: Cracks that don’t widen or change over time are typically cosmetic.
During a home inspection we are checking cracks to see if they are more than 1/4” wide, and displaced, along with any possible moisture intrusion issues. A great way to check on your own (DIY) is to run your hand across it to see if it is displaced, brittle or crumbling. If we notice any signs like this we recommend a licensed foundation contractor evaluate.